Too many heel hooks...

Well, I should finish up thruday first. Nic and Brian's hair has been scaring the locals.



Water is pretty scarce in the desert, and they need to truck in the water to the Rock Ranch, so cleanliness takes a vacation too. After I posted last, Brian went next door to the salon and got his hair cut, for $8! Then Nic went over and got his cut too. Kris and I look less homeless now that they've cleaned up a bit.


While Brian was out getting his mop chopped, Nic and Kris taught me to play chess. It's okay, but I still preferr Stratego. Then we decided to go to the lamest movie ever, Eragon. It's a stupid movie made for unquestioning 13 year old boys. Boom, the dragon is instantly big and can talk; why is it faster to travel by dragon, but the guy on the horse can still keep up? Tooo many plot holes for our superior brains. And what was John Malcovich and Jeremy Irons doing in that piece o shite? They mustuv' gotten drunk and pissed someone off at the studio. We're going to see Hannibal Rising today, and we're hoping not to get screwed by it as bad.

Yesterday was a great day for me. North Mountain was completely vacant. Everyone, including Nic and Brian, we on tour on the other mountains. I was kinda' bummed, cuz with out other people around, the energy tends to die. We started at No One Gets Out of Here Alive to warm up. We had been here on our first day, and I couldn't get it. My muscles were still weak, my skin was really thin, and I wasn't commiting to anything that was coarse. So after figuring out a sweet little heel hook at the end, the problem went, no effort. That had bugged me a lot that I hadn't finished it before, so now that was off my mind.




And then it was off to Daily Dick Dose. I had spent the previous night falling asleep, trying to visualize all the moves, so that when I got there I wouldn't have to screw around remembering it all. I also drank a ton of water before. I'd like to thank my new friends Visualization and Water for supporting me in my effort and send of Daily Dick Dose. It was awesome. Kris got it on video, so I'll post on YouTube and put in a link, eventually...Woo hoo! My first V7!




That heel hook I'm doing has ravaged my hamstring. Well, additional right heel hooking that day really did it in, but man my butt hurt later that night! Too get this next little pinch hold I had to drive my hips up to the roof and squeeze everything. Once I hit it, it felt so good I didn't even think of moving my other hand the the undercling jug right next to the pinch. I started moving my feet, and Kris starts shouting, "Get the undercling, get the undercling!" I finished it up easily and felt really great.

Then we decided to get out of the sun and crawl through the slots to The New Meadow where we saw our first people of the day! We found our way to Lobster Claw, and Kris made easy work of it, even if he thinks it was a crap acent.

I tried it out, but was already getting tired, and wasn't really "mobbed" on it anyways. Too many heels hooks for my hamstring...

Kris was told by Brian and Nic to not leave Hueco with out falling off of Choir Boys. We showed up there not long before two dudes with Zealot pads came in. One of them knew the beta for it, so Kris started working it. Too bad, Choir Boys Light starts out with a heel hook on a tiny little spike. The problem also looked a little scrunched for him. He got frustrated and gave up after a number of tries, cursing his heel. Of course, the one thing my little legs can do is heel hook! I got on and linked up the first two moves easily, but not with out pain. I felt really strong, so I'm resting my leg today to go back tomorrow and try to have a last day send! I'm such a wuss when it come to pain. It just shuts off my "effort button". It's okay sometimes, it keeps me from injuring myself too bad.

So tomorrow the game plan is for a North Mountain crushfest! We'll start down at the Mushroom Boulder for Kris to do Mushroom Roof, and Nic to do Accupressure before the sun hits the black hold. I'm very confident Kris will get Mushroom. He's been getting over the lip with his hands enough times now that it's become purely skin dependant. He's got a nice hole in his middle finger tip that's keeping him from sending. And as long as it's not too warm right away, I believe Nic will send too. Then over to Choir Boys Light V7 for me. Maybe next year, if Hueco is still open to climbing, I'll come back and do the low start. Not sure what Brian has planned, but I'm sure it will be excellent boulder-watching.

Last night I walked down the road from the Rock Ranch and got some nice sunset shots of North and West Mountain. Damn, what a beatiful outcrop of rock! No where else on Earth like this place! Chris Craft - YOU MUST GO TO HUECO BEFORE IT IS TOO LATE! Boulders just don't exist like this! Write your congressperson! NOW! Or find millions of dollars to donate to the parks department in the name of climbers! Go- NOW! Lynn & Kris